Shivneri

(History)
Shivaji Maharaj was born on this fort in 1630 and was here till 1632, then this fort was won by Mughals in 1637. Maharaj attacked this fort for four times but could not succeed. This fort was never in “Swarajya” till about 1720 when “Shahu Maharaj” (grandson of Shivaji Maharaj) won it from Mughals. After that Shivneri was with “Peshwa” till British took over the Maratha Empire. Two kilometers away from this fort there are the “Lenyandri Cave” which is one of Ashtavinayak Temple in Maharastra. Closer from here, there is another fort named Jivdhan which is famous for trekking.

(Reach the base)
It is about 100 Kms from Pune. Junner (or say Kusur) is the base village for this fort. It's a Tahasil in Pune district. Better way is to go by ST from Pune to Junner (92-95 Kms) as first bus is at 6.00 AM from Pune and the last one is at 4.00 PM in the evening. Once you get down at Junner, enquire about the last bus going to Pune so that you can take maximum time to see the fort and sites nearby fort, like “Ozar” and “Lenyandri”. These three places can be covered in one day trip, if moved a little fast. From the bus station, you can see “Kamani Majjid”, “Birthplace of Shivaji Maharaj” and “Kadelot Point” along with the caves which are carved on the fort. Take the lrft turn from bus station and reach Shivaji statue (Shivaji Chowk), from here you take the left turn and walk upto 2 Kms to reach village “Kusur”. You will see a college on right hand side while going to “Kusur”, note this as landmark as you will come directly here while coming back. You can also take the bus running between Junner-Kusur but its frequency is very low so better to walk 2 Kms. From “Kusur”, take right turn which will take you on the fort.

(Reach the top)
While walking through the road to top you may observe the well maintained road, road barriers and fortification too. One has to pass through 7 main doors to reach the top of the fort. The names of these doors are as follows in the sequence they come – Maha Darwaja, Ganesh Darwaja, Pir Darwaja, Hatti Darwaja, Shivai Darwaja, Mena Darwaja and Kulup Darwaja. Another small door cum window is at Kadelot Tok called Kadelot Darwaja. There are number of gardens created, street lights installed and sign boards fixed on the way to fort. At first and second door, you can have a good view at both top and down side of the fort as you are at mid height. There is one more “Kaman” before third door, it is broken now but still you can see the ruins of its walls. You can go atop of third door and can again have some great views of nature and gardens on the fort. The distance between third and forth door is maximum amongst all doors and there are few rock cut steps also. Forth door is in the best condition, it has its wooden doors with great piece of craft on it. Big nails are fixed into it along with a small sub-door. You can have few minutes rest here as the cool wind and the chillness below the door roof temps you. One can even have few clicks from camera too. Once you pass this door, you can now go to Shivai Temple to take the blessings from Shivai Devi (on her name the “Raje” was named “Shivaji”) by passing through Shivai Darwaja. From the temple you can either go directly on fort or can choose to go to caves and then to fort. There are some good carvings in the rock that one can not afford to miss. I would suggest go and have a look at these caves, while coming back from there (again through Shivai Darwaja) take right side and keep moving up to reach the sixth door. It’s a double layered and low heighten door. After few more steps you reach the seventh and last door while reaching the top.

(About fort and sightseeing)
There is one more garden after seventh door on both sides and you may found few stalls too selling Lime Water, Butter Milk etc. You can take few minutes rest here and reach the “Ambarkhana” towards the right side. It was the place used to store grains on fort. It is in good condition, as one can go inside and on top of it to have better look at it. From here you can go on the top of a small hill to see the mosque and come back on the main road to head towards main fort. On this way, you will find the iron bars fixed on the deeper side of the road and you can also see the nice view of “Janmasthan”. After waking a bit, you will reach “Ganga-Jamuna Tanks”. These are twin water tanks with very good construction inside. There is one more tank beside these tanks. You can see the “Shiv-Kunj” beside these tanks, where the statue of Shivali Maharaj (as a child) and his mother Jijabai is kept in their memory. Note that there is a way beside “Shiv-Kunj” which will take you to down via some thrilling route, amazing caves and rock cut steps. Just ahead of “Shiv-Kunj”, is the “Kamani Majjid” and “Kamani Tank”. Moving ahead, you come to the ruins of “Royal Palace” which are in good condition. The bathroom having facility for preparing hot water and bathtub is just amazing, moreover the painting and crafting inside the bathroom is still in better condition. Beside this, is the “Birthplace of Shivaji Maharaj” (“Shivjanmasthan’). It is two storied building in very good condition. You can go inside this building and even on the first floor as wel. It is pleasant view from the top. One can have as many pictures as he/she wants here. Leaving this place behind, you come to see the “Badami Lake”. It is called so due to its “Heart Shape”. From here you have to walk some distance and reach the “Kadelot Point” where a small door is build called “Kadelot Darwaja”. This is the other end of fort. Go back to “Shiv-Kunj” from here and take the earlier mentioned route (The line saying…“Note that….”) to go down.

(Come down)
While going down, keep you balance towards the rock and towards the downside because it is quite dangerous at some point, but its still enjoyable patch for a trekker. After you cross the iron bar, go ahead instead of going down and have a look at one of the best cave in the world. You will be amazed by the carving and digging. You can see the window carved in a single/uncut rock and that giant door of the cave. Notice the “Ganesh Murthi” carved in the rock just when that iron rod’s patch ends. See the caves but don’t go more further and deep in greediness of getting more out of the trek, it could be hazards as the route and trees are not that good, so I suggest you all to be cautious. While coming down, you can see the “Teak Wood” trees as the base of “Shivneri” comes under reserved forest area. Cross the compound wall of forest safely and you are now near the college that came in midway while going to “Kusur”. From here, reach the bus station and either go to Lenyandri or go to Pune as per the time constraint. I am posting some of the pictures taken by me when i visited Shivneri in October 2008.
Door 8 - Kadelot Darwaja A cave on the way to fort A window carved in uncut/single rock The way, it was damn HOT
Shivai Devi's Temple Door 7 - Kulup Darwaja Door 6 - Dindi/Mena Darwaja Shiv-Janm Sthan Birthplace of Shivaji Maharaj
Door 1 - Mahadarwaja Door 2 - Ganesh Darwaja Door 3 - Peer Darwaja Door 4 - Hatti Darwaja Door 5 - Shivai Darwaja

2 comments:

atul said...

VERY GOOD OBSERVATION

Unknown said...

Good suggestions for trekking here And Nice Pics.

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